The Dayulon Beach and Mountain Resort served an excellent American breakfast before a short ride to the morning excursion, the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park also referred to as St. Paul Subterranean Underground River. (Don’t get confused by both names. It is one and the same.) The original itinerary said we’d trek from Dayulon Resort to the Underground River via the Monkey Trail. The Monkey Trail heads through the Mangroves along the shoreline followed by a slow, uphill climb to the Forest Ranger station. One last final stretch on wooden planks and steps would end at the Subterranean Underground River.
Tour Operator did tell us about another trekking option to the river that would take hours, scrambling up muddy trails using tree branches for handholds, through the mountains. That certainly didn’t sound appealing. With no other options, a 10-minute ride to the Tourist Assistance and Information Office at the boat dock to pay the 200 Pesos per person fee, register and wait for our outrigger. You must show passports/identity papers! Don’t forget them. And, wear shorts and tevas since you’ll be wading into the water on and off the outriggers.
tourists boarding their outrigger for the ride to underground river, Sabang
a few of the 50 outriggers that shuttle visitors to the Subterranean River, Sabang
I don’t know what any of us expected but it definitely wasn’t this. Please don’t tell me it was going to be similar to a Disney Pirates of The Caribbean or Jungle Cruise Ride with pirates jump out from behind rocks singing, “Yo ho, yo ho, a pirate’s life for me.” Argh… Countless tourists were already lined up, waiting for their numbered outrigger to shuttle them to the mouth of the cave where the underground river ride begins. One outrigger loaded with tourists leaves, another pulls in. Boatman hands out life jackets and helps you climb aboard. The local outrigger captains work for the owners who pay them 20% of the net. There are 50 outriggers and each captain gets 2-3 runs a day. On board for the 20-minute ride to a beach near the mouth of the cave and sailing on the China Sea.
map of the Subterranean River National Park, Palawan
The Puerto Princesa Underground River was established as a national park in 1971. It contains an 8.2 km/5 mile underground river. The lower half of the river is brackish and subject to the ocean’s tide making it the most unique natural phenomenon of its type to exist. The river runs under St. Paul Mountain with the biggest cave under its highest point. The St. Paul Mountain range is karst, limestone outcroppings, and estimated to be between 16-20 million years old. The Underground River is also a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site. Thousand of visitors a year make this an easy day trip from Puerto Princesa.
welcome to the Subterranean/Underground River, Sabang
everyone must wear a life jacket on the underground river, Sabang
Off on the beach, a five-minute walk along a boardwalk and registered again. The Park enforces a strict “No Permit, No Entry” policy. Life vests and hard hats were distributed and put on. Another wait at the light green river watching filled boats come and go. There are 10 river boats rowed by boatmen who give a running commentary on the different formations during the 45-minute trip. (“That rock is called the cathedral…”) Each boat holds eight people, and each boatman rows eight trips a day. Don’t expect to travel the entire 8.2 km/5 mile length. It only goes halfway before turning around.
river boats heading in and out of the cave's mouth, Sabang
Art, Margie, Steve and Sheila attractively hard-hatted and ready for the Underground River, Sabang
(Video of trip through Cave..) Our boat was filled to capacity and a woman in front was handed a spotlight to shine on different formations per boatman’s instructions. Otherwise, it’s pitch black in there. Important! When looking up at the ceiling, keep your mouth shut unless you relish bat drippings in your mouth. Seriously. Huge, huge bat colonies that, for me, was the most interesting part of the journey. Thousands of bats leave the caves of the Underground River at dusk and fly to the mangroves where they feast on flowers. That has to be a spectacular sight.
formations seen on the Underground River, Sabang
large bat colonies inside the Underground River cave, Sabang
The different formations were interesting (a synomym in this instance for “hmmm…”). They probably would have been more intriguing if we hadn’t just floated on a similar subterranean river in China. I jumped every time water dripped from the cave ceiling onto me, envisioning bat shit. Puerto Princesa is asking for votes to make this one of the new World’s Seven Wonders. (Don’t hold your breath waiting for my vote.) That’s my take on the Subterranean River.
we exit the Underground River, another group enters, Sabang
beach walk back to the outrigger with stunning Karst, Sabang
Off the boat for a short walk along the river towards the beach where it empties into the China Sea. Our boat, number 11, was waiting for the 20-minute ride back to the dock. The parking lot was completely filled with people on day tours from Puerto Princesa. I suggest you go early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Perhaps the afternoon one will allow you to watch the bats emerge from the cave.
Click here to view the embedded video.
Lunch time…
